H&M’s Science Story collection, the debut capsule of H&M’s new initiative Innovation Stories, is a thoughtful ode to science and innovation’s brilliance and importance. The collection celebrates the inspiring thinkers, researchers and scientists who challenge the boundaries of sustainability. The Science Story collection is a tribute of sorts, honoring the collaboration between H&M and the great minds who trailblaze in textile development.

As such, cutting-edge fabrics and processes are paramount throughout and feature on the collection’s versatile silhouettes, exaggerated proportions and bold, modern shapes. Likewise, supersized clothing labels, as well as being a statement design detail, provide transparency on each piece’s science-story. Menswear is also included, with contemporary joggers and crewnecks.

H&M has long been dedicated to making positive change and to drive progress within sustainable fashion. The latest initiative, Innovation Stories, sees H&M push further for positive transformation with a directional concept that showcases innovation, sustainable fabrications and design.

“For this collection, we wanted to bring the customers closer to the brilliant sustainability-story behind each of these designs. Every piece is crafted from awe-inspiring materials that scientists and innovators have spent years trialling. The Science Story collection celebrates the beauty of that journey,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, Creative Advisor at H&M. “Our new concept continues H&M’s journey towards a sustainable and circular fashion system. Innovation Stories allows us to develop and grow, all while creating desirable and long-lasting pieces that we hope our customers will love and be proud of,” she explained.

The first collection to launch under the collective is Science Story, which pays tribute to the brilliant minds behind fabrications of the future. With it, we introduce new materials such as EVO by Fulgar, a bio-based yarn derived from castor oil, and Desserto, which is a plant- based alternative to leather, produced from cactus plants.

“Over the years, the H&M design team have built a fascinating relationship with scientists, following the amazing development and work that’s behind creating sustainably-sourced materials. There’s poetry to their experimentation, and we share a mutual drive to democratize sustainable fashion in our push for a positive future. We wanted to capture that dedication in this collection with each piece crafted in the best of forward-thinking sustainably-sourced materials.” says Ella Soccorsi, Concept designer at H&M.

“Innovation Stories is a platform that pushes our experimentation to the next level. The initiative encourages our work with scientists and developers and puts a spotlight on our progressive ideas. Science Story is a homage to the years of research and experiments behind these incredible materials”, she elaborated on the debut collection.

KEY PIECES

Extreme proportions, bold details and a crisp color-palette synthesize to create a striking collection. Key womenswear pieces include the wide-leg bright white jeans with removable double waistband, the lightly-cropped chalk- white shirt with oversized breast-pocket and the cuffed tracksuit.

There’s a new focus on revealing cuts and adjustable details, such as the strong- shouldered yellow blazer with cut-out features on the waist, the high-waist ruched shirt body and the oversized shirt dress with curved exposed hem detailing on each side. Colors are light and clean; sky blue, pure white and mint green add freshness, keeping the eye drawn to the collection’s shapes. In contrast, a pop of neon orange adds a degree of eccentricity.

ACCESSORIES

Energetic and bold accessories are the edgy antidote to the collection’s clean and classic clothing, with circular swirl motifs a nod to the circularity found in the majority of this collection’s sustainably-sourced materials. The chunky necklace with orange swirls and rhinestone detailing adds a bolt of optimism, as do the coordinating statement loop rhinestone earrings, both partly made from recycled plastic. High- heeled green strap sandals add a vivid pop of color and are crafted from Desserto, a cactus- based material a brand-new fabrication for H&M. As too, is the rhinestone-studded neon bracelet. Recycled plastic blue sunglasses have a double- lens frame partly made from resins of plant origin and a statement sustainability-label drawstring bag.

SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS AND PROCESSES

H&M’s Innovation Stories is the future of fashion. The initiative acts as the nucleus for H&M’s experimentation as it introduces the most cutting-edge sustainably-sourced materials to the world. One of the new materials used for Science Story is EVO by Fulgar, a bio-based yarn derived from castor oil.

This renewable resource is primarily cultivated in sites that are unsuitable for other useful plants. Also introduced this season is Desserto, a plant-based vegan alternative to leather created from cactus plants. The cactus- based material is cruelty-free and cuts down on the usage of natural resources, like water.

Returning this season are fabrications such as Agraloop Hemp Biofibre – a 2018 Global Change Award winner – which converts food crop waste, in this case, leftovers from oilseed hemp, into a new natural fiber. Eastman Naia Renew cellulosic fiber is also returning, produced in a closed-loop chemical system from 60% wood pulp and 40% recycled waste plastics. Additionally, Texloop, which is a type of recycled cotton called RCOT, processed using pre-consumer cotton waste to create new material while preserving the original fiber quality for further recycling, features throughout the collection.

We asked Ann-Sofie Johansson and Ella Soccorsi to learn more about the collection and H&M’s Innovation Science Story.

What material in this collection were you most excited about?

Ann-Sofie Johansson: I think Desserto is particularly spectacular. It’s a sustainably-sourced material partly made of Nopal cactus that mimics leather. We used it on this collection’s accessories – the green heeled sandals are a standout in particular.

Ella Soccorsi: One of our new fabrics, EVO by Fulgar, is a bio-based yarn made from castor oil seeds. It is an impressive fabric – it’s lightweight, absorbent and very durable, with a low environmental impact.

Part of H&M’s sustainability vision is moving towards circular fashion, what does that mean at H&M? How are you doing that?

Ann-Sofie Johansson: We’re working to make the entire life cycle of a piece sustainable. H&M offers more ways for customers to repair, rent, or recycle their pieces. We’re working on new re-sale and remanufacture models too. As is the case with this particular collection, H&M is pioneering unique, sustainable fabrications. We’re determined to make a positive change.

The collection is visually bold and energetic, why did you choose to go in that direction?

Ella Soccorsi: We wanted to focus on the bold shapes and forward-thinking fabrications, so colors are fresh and clean, and we kept print to a minimum. There’s an energy to the collection that we think mirrors our drive for positive change – I hope our customers feel that way too.

As consumers, should we be caring for clothes that are made from these new materials differently?

Ann-Sofie Johansson: We’ve worked with our innovators so that each of these sustainably- sourced fabrications work as their previous counterparts did. When cared for, these pieces will last. H&M created a Take Care concept a few years ago, too, to guide customers on caring for each garment.

Is there a material that you wish science could invent? What would it be?

Ella Soccorsi: I think it’s awe-inspiring what scientists and innovators are creating at the moment. Even now, to have fabrications that are made from cactus leaves or fibers that leave no carbon footprint, I think that’s hugely inspiring. Any material that can help enact circularity within fashion would be a positive thing.

Other than the designs being designed and produced, how else is H&M committing to this sustainability journey?

Ann-Sofie Johansson: This collection is truly at the forefront. From fabrications to production, our journey is ever-expanding and evolving. Our Innovation concept is our most recent and explicit commitment to sustainability; it’s a platform for H&M’s most groundbreaking sustainability ideas, concepts, and fabrications to be realized.

Which item in the collection is your favorite and why?

Ann-Sofie Johansson: I think it would have to be the shirt body – it fits perfectly into any wardrobe and is such a versatile piece!

Ella Soccorsi: My personal favorite are the high-waisted wide-leg jeans. They have a unique adjustable waistband which allows for a multitude of styling options.

As a concept designer, do the new fabrics change the design process for you?

Ella Soccorsi: Sometimes! Often when we’re working with a fabric that we haven’t before, we might be getting used to how it acts or reacts, how it molds to the body or how it moves. We might have a particular design idea for a new fabrication, but that might not work in reality! It’s part of the fun and reminds us that we are trail- blazers in this field.

The Science Story collection for spring/summer 2021 will be available exclusively online at kw.hm.com from March 18.