If there’s one thing we can probably all agree on about this seemingly interminable 2020 is how unconventional and unpredictable our experiences have been throughout. And now, the H&M Studio collection for AW20 closes the year flying in the face of homogeneous everyone-dress-this-way rules. Aptly titled “The Refined Rebel” this collection features tailoring that uses vibrantly unexpected color, fluid bespoke prints which are inspired by enduring Italian marble, and pieces that can allow you to confidently bring the party to the office, because, savor every day.

“The AW20 Studio collection muse is not afraid to challenge the status quo. This collection is for those that celebrate being oneself above all else. We hope our customers feel inspired to dress with a carefree, rebellious attitude,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, Creative Advisor at H&M. bazaar had the pleasure of chatting more to Ann-Sofie, and she explained a little about the inspiration for the collection and the ideas expressed within.

With social and physical distancing, and with a universal realization that time is fleeting, do you think that this collection will encourage evening wear as daywear, androgyny and more outrageous self-expression? How does this collection embody that?

Absolutely, we created this collection with the hopes that customers will feel inspired to bring the decadence of evening wear into the day. Why not wear our sheer dress over jeans? Or our shimmering blazer to the office or Zoom call? Many pieces in this collection are completely adaptable for any time of day, for any wearer, for any occasion. We’re really proud that this collection offers something for all forms of self-expression.  

Nineteenth Century writer Violet Paget – pen name Vernon Lee – said that the viewer empathizes with art when the piece triggers memories and associations. Which piece from the Studio collection evokes the clearest memory when looking back on working on this collection, and why?

The collection’s beautiful statement marble-print dress really reminds me of the design team’s research trip to Florence. Its bold print brings back memories of our tours of the terrazzo, while the colors and deep-V neckline mirror the brilliant showmanship and style of the Florentine locals. We loved people-watching! Thinking of how Paget had spent so much time in the city and creating that connection in our designs was really meaningful for the whole team too. I’m reminded of that when I look at the piece. 

Wearing uber glam statement jewelry pieces can elicit the same joy as when raiding the family jewelry box as a child. Especially when worn in an unconventional way. How did you decide on the pieces you wanted to create and the elements to use on them?

We knew we wanted this collection’s jewelry to make a statement. The teardrop shape of the earrings and broach is a subtle nod to a slightly more heritage style and we loved the almost vintage feel that the shape gives too. Both pieces were created in bright, eye-catching crystal so that they can dress-up or personalize any piece from the collection. 

Leather is a bold choice to make. Can you tell us more about why leather was right for this collection?

Leather in this case really embodies the collection’s inspirations. Thinking of the richness and luxuriousness of palatial Italy, using such a tactile fabric as leather was key in capturing that decadence. Likewise, it best captures one of the collection’s inspirations, David Bowie and the glam-rock rebellious energy of the 70s. 

How does the philosophy of H&M Studio inspire you in your conceptualization of a collection aesthetically and with the use of textiles?

H&M Studio is a hub of fashion-forward thinking, the team and I are continuously striving to create contemporary, approachable, and dynamic pieces that last the test of time. The story of a collection plays a huge role in the aesthetic choices as well as the fabrications. For this collection, we wanted to portray the fearless attitudes and androgynous style of David Bowie and Violet Paget, so we created tailored silhouettes, used colors that evoke 70s disco and punk, and used rich Italian wools and leathers. It all stems from the team’s storytelling. Additionally, one of the main goals of H&M is sustainability and in keeping with this, the AW20 collection has some key conscious pieces in recycled polyester and organic cotton.

How does this collection speak to H&M’s global fanbase? 

The H&M customer is conscious, contemporary and loves to explore their own personal style. Our AW20 collection was inspired by similar ideals with this season’s muse challenging the norm and showing their attitude through their style. There’s so much experimentation and celebration to be had with this collection, I hope our global fanbase love it as much as we do. 

Certainly there are H&M Studio “muses”; Barbie Ferreira, Veronika Heilbrunner, Celeste, Alton Mason, Young Emperors and Mia Kong, who have all been having lots of fun with this collection. These fashion bloggers, creatives and influencers, are co-creating the campaign from where they are across all four corners of the globe, travel limitations having been in place. They have organically utilized the collection, putting together the pieces their own way, totally uniquely, and are posting the results. 

“In keeping with H&M’s strive for innovation, the H&M Studio team experimented with an exciting new campaign format for AW20. Adapted for today’s climate, this new way of working gives our global cast the creative freedom to style, photograph, and express themselves in the comfort of their own space. We hope the new collection and campaign encourages everyone to celebrate their style,” says Kattis Bahrke, Head of Creative Marketing and Communications at H&M. The Refined Rebel even has its own exclusive social media filter, so you can get involved at home! You’re invited to share your own personal styling of the collection, just as the muses are. Giphy stickers should inspire playful customization too!  Happy styling and posting, remembering to tag H&M!

The Refined Rebel collection is available on kw.hm.com from September 24th. Follow the latest on H&M’s social media channels Instagram, Facebook, YouTube.