When we walked into a wave of elegant decor and the faint smell of spices lingering in the air, we were greeted by an oasis of lush greenery surrounding the comfortable setting that is the Midar “outdoor” seating area. The restaurant is situated in The Avenues’ luxe The Gardens area, so outdoor isn’t actually outdoor, but with a spectacular view overlooking Fifth Ring Road and sunlight flooding through the large windows and the structure’s skylight, we might as well be in a climate-controlled sunroom enjoying a leisurely family lunch. Along with the soothing sounds of Abdel Halim Hafez crooning on the hi-fi and little plates of crisp vegetables and spicy ma’abouch alongside freshly prepared fish, you instantly feel like you’ve been transported back to 1960’s Kuwait.
The 60’s and 70’s were a special time for Kuwait. Part of the golden era of the country’s history, where oil wealth was newly discovered and the culture of fishing and pearl diving were still abundant, most of Kuwaiti cuisine was dependent on family-style fish dishes using freshly caught fish. Back in those times and before the discovery of oil, Kuwait’s economy was about fishing and pearl diving. If people didn’t catch fish, they wouldn’t have anything to eat. Today, we are not at a shortage of delicious food in Kuwait, especially with concepts from Basil Al Salem’s award winning Gastronomica chain of restaurants including the brand new Midar to choose from.
Basil Al Salem was adamant on creating a concept that reflected Kuwait’s most treasured tradition, the sea. “This restaurant is the first of its kind here in Kuwait,” Gastronomica Director of Operations Louay Morsel tells me. “Basil Al Salem wanted to bring back the Kuwaiti tradition of seafood and recreate the feeling of eating at your Kuwaiti grandparents’ house in a haute setting.” High end bahari inspired dining is the experience Midar delivers, and we’re all here for it.
Because we chose to enjoy lunch on the terrace, we just had to take a tour of the restaurant’s impressive interior. Adorned with homey vintage memorabilia and set up to look like a dining room of an old house with individual tables to host individual parties, Midar’s aesthetic felt modern, regal and comfortable in a home-like setting all at once. I especially enjoyed the traditional Kuwaiti moldings on the pillars that resembled fish scales, which many old houses had as a nod to their bahari seafaring heritage completed by fishermen’s baskets, which lined the ceiling. A Catch of the Day display sat neatly on ice at the front of the open-concept kitchen area where you can see the tanour being used to make delicious, crusty bread, and the kitchen staff expertly preparing your food. If you have the opportunity to, catch a glimpse of the grill master cooking your catch of the day over smoked, date palm leaves on an open flame.
Our selection was entirely as per Louay’s recommended ordering. We asked him to surprise us, and surprise us he did. Mouthwatering tanour bread made with a date-sourdough base and sprinkled with sesame seeds paired with Jahra Street hummus – a hummus that’s so creamy and kissed with crunchy pine nuts which pairs perfectly with the smokiness of the tanour dough.
But we had to tear ourselves away from the bread to try the other dishes that started to fill our table. The Crispy Lentil Salad was elegant in preparation, with individual leaves of lettuce filled with pomegranate, diced cucumber, onions, tomatoes, red pepper, crispy vermicelli, crispy lentils and a tamarind tahini dressing which offered a tangy contrast to the natural sweetness of the vegetables. Shrimp on Khoubz is Midar’s take on Shrimp Toast, with shrimp that’s been minced to creaminess and spread on classic tanour bread, sprinkled with sesame seeds and fried to crispy perfection. Pair it with their in-house made tomato chutney sauce and you’re in heaven. But to reach Nirvana? Try the Khoubz Eroug. This Deep fried vegetable fritter paired with spicy yogurt dip was my absolute favorite appetizer that I tucked into during the appetizers round, and would’ve kept eating it if it wasn’t pulled away from me to try other things. I would go back to Midar and order this dish specifically, because I could not get enough of the crunch that came with every bite. The Smokey Eggplant was a close second, made with whole charcoal roasted eggplant, tahini, date-balsamic molasses and walnuts. This needs no pairings and is delicious on its own, especially if you enjoy the smokiness of eggplant, but this would be your chance to give the tanour bread a cheeky comeback and scoop up a generous portion with it.
As we waited for our mains to make their way to the table, we happily sipped our beautifully made drinks. The drinks menu at Midar offers freshly pressed juices and artfully made yet simple cocktails using a blend of different fruit. The photogenic Golden Era cocktail containing mango, lemon juice and pomegranate juice, and Lumi Passion Fruit Iced Tea with passionfruit, lemon and lumi tea. These two drinks were absolutely perfect in balancing out the spiciness that was to heat our table.
Still sipping our drinks and tucking into the massive Grilled Jumbo Shrimp that we were presented with, we savoured the shrimp’s succulent meat drenched in lemon-butter sauce with a hint of saffron while we watched the friendly and well-informed waiter Ma’en expertly prepare our grilled Catch of the Day on a carted tray next to our table: a plump, beautiful sea bass brought in fresh from the region (since the Gulf does not have any sea bass – but this fish is the only one that isn’t local to Kuwait’s waters.) opening it and removing its bones, spooning delicious hashou stuffing of caramelized onions reminiscent to Palestinian musakhan with a hint of the quintessential Khaleeji curried taste.
I happily accepted a portion of fish which absolutely melted in my mouth, while dousing it in the ma’abouch spicy seasoning that comes with the table. I am a ma’abouch girl through and through, and like any true born and bred Gulfite, enjoy my food with a bit of extra spice and flavor. The sea bass was not lacking in flavor, and nor was the Hammour Biryani – the true star of the show with its saffron-spiced rice, biryani sauce, fried onions and tender cubes of fresh Hammour – but the green and red ma’abouch along with the pickled achaar and plate of fresh rocket leaves, green onion and radishes were very much appreciated for someone like me who always likes a little extra.
That achaar though. Mountain garlic, roasted tomato, absolute bliss. But I have to warn you about adding ma’abouch to the biryani – it does taste wonderful, but it doesn’t need it. You will sweat and tear from the spiciness and nothing will save you but a drizzle of the raita yogurt that comes with the rice dish, followed by a few final sips of your Lumi Passionfruit Iced Tea.
And because all sweet experiences must end on the sweetest note possible, we finished things off with a parade of desserts. Sticky Date Cake: warm date cake with date molasses and caramel sauce, topped with their cardamom milk ice cream and sesame tuile. All their desserts were special, but this one warranted two extra bites from me. Because I stand by this claim, nobody does date cake quite like Kuwaitis do.
Other desserts on offer were Elba with an Egaily Crumble, which is a saffron-infused custard take on the Kuwaiti favorite Girs egaily, and Darabeel Chai Haleeb Milk Cake which was also lovely, as a sponge cake drenched in tea milk and topped with whipped cream and crumbled darabeel biscuit. Both were pleasant, but they were no Date Cake in my books. The Kleecha & Gaimar Ice Cream Sandwich, however, came as a close second.
With ice cream made from fresh clotted cream sandwiched between traditional sesame biscuits and drizzled with honey saffron caramel, this confection gives the KDD chocolate ice cream sandwich a run for its money for the title of “Best Ice Cream Sandwich in Kuwait”. When you visit Midar, order that for dessert along with the Date Cake and a never-ending stream of Arabic coffee from the Dallah. That is the best way to finish your meal at this lovely restaurant.
Before you leave to go straight home and collapse into a deep siesta induced by Kuwaiti soul food, (seriously – don’t bother strolling around the Avenues after lunch. You’ll never make it.) don’t forget to pick up a jars of their in-house made ma’abouch and achaar to take your experience back home with you. Because this is what Basil Al Salem was aiming for when he created the concept that has taken reign in his heart: to create something close to home, for locals to invite into their homes just as he has invited you into his.
Midar is an old Kuwaiti word for “hook”, which can be seen throughout the restaurant’s branding. And just like the hammour, nwaibi, zubaidi, baloul, shrimps and crabs of the Arabian Gulf, Basil Al Salem’s Midar has us hooked. Be sure to visit for one of the greatest meals of your life.
Midar is open in The Avenues Phase 4 – The Gardens. Follow them on Instagram @midar.me and visit their website at www.midar-me.com.
