The Simone Rocha x H&M collection unites the inspirations and emotions that have defined the Simone Rocha world. It is an amalgamation of 10 years of design – a cross-pollination of Rocha’s sensibilities and signatures.
The collection pays tribute to Rocha’s instantly recognizable silhouettes, fabrications and embellishments. To create each piece, Rocha reflected on her archive, and the individual stories of past collections, dissecting and rebuilding iconic pieces into new propositions. In this process of reworking and mixing, a multitude of references come together in fresh, unexpected forms.
Each piece has its own original identity but is born from a specific moment in time. We see glimmers of Tudor courtiers, of wild florals, of portraits and photographs, of dolls and playthings. Rocha is committed to longevity in clothing – her timeless pieces are always intended to be mixed and matched with favorites from the past. Here, she offers a full wardrobe, from daywear to formal treasures. Through the process of being styled and worn, each piece takes on its own identity.
The collection is reflective of the intergenerational nature of her designs – there are pieces for those of all ages and sizes. For some, this will be a chance to recall the shapes and details that have defined the Simone Rocha brand, for others, it will be a joyful first entry – a chance to take a piece of the story home.
Simone Rocha and Ann-Sofie Johansson, Creative Advisor at H&M told us more about the collaboration and collection.
How did this collaborative H&M x Simone Rocha collection come about?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: Simone Rocha has been on H&M’s wish-list for a long time. We have been following her for a number of years and have been so impressed with how clear her perspective is, and how unique and special her aesthetic is, season on season. We are thrilled to be working with such a dynamic young female designer – and of course we are so excited that this collection marks the first time we have worked with an Irish designer.
Simone Rocha: I’m so thrilled to be working with H&M on this collection. As a designer, and as a customer, I’ve been such a fan of the H&M collaboration concept. Margiela, Alber Elbaz, Comme des Garcons – it’s such an amazing list of alumni to be a part of. Also, as a consumer, it’s something I genuinely believe in – I still have socks from the Marni x H&M collection, I still have a Comme spotty knit! I remember the elation of being able to have those pieces – it was such an incredible moment when you could have a part of fashion history. And for me to be able to do that for a generation that might not always have the opportunity to buy my pieces is thrilling – I am very humbled to be able to do it. And of course, I am thrilled to be the first Irish designer to do it.
Tell us about the Simone Rocha x H&M collection; the pieces, the details, the inspirations.
SR: The H&M x Simone Rocha collection has allowed me to expand into areas that I’ve long been fascinated by, such as menswear and childrenswear. It is the first time I have offered a collection for the whole family, which I am so excited about, as family is obviously hugely important to me, and has shaped all of my work so far. The timing of this collaboration feels so special given that we have recently celebrated the 10-year anniversary of the Simone Rocha brand; naturally we are in a moment of reflection. We are thinking a lot about how the brand has grown, and the key styles and details and signatures for which we have become known. And this collection has really given us a chance to celebrate those, which is wonderful.
ASJ: One of the things that attracted us to Simone for this collaboration is the fact that her brand has such a clear point of view. And I feel that the H&M x Simone Rocha collection really does emphasize the things that define her and her aesthetic. The volume, the decoration, the beautiful fabrications, crafted in house, which is very rare. And, of course, the jewelry. It’s a real amalgamation of 10 years. That is one of the things that is so special about this H&M collaboration opportunity; it allows designers the chance to really reflect on their signatures, and offer a whole new audience a glimpse into their world.
Simone, tell us more about the process of looking through the archive, and how past collections informed the garments within the H&M x Simone Rocha collection.
SR: Every garment in this collection has been so carefully thought-out – so many chains of ideas and inspirations go behind each one. I really wanted it to feel like each piece had its own identity, and was from a moment in time, but also felt totally relevant to now. It was really emotional going through my archive, when building this collection – it was a wonderful chance to reflect on seasons I was especially proud of, and to revisit collections that felt like milestones, and little gems of ideas that we maybe didn’t push as far as we wanted to the first-time round.
And the archive is so important to the way I work as a designer anyway. We are not a brand that abandons ideas each season – we often look back on past propositions, or continue to evolve a silhouette or shape. I always want my customers to be able to buy one new thing and pair it with other things from the past. They should always be able to mix and match, and evolve their collection of Simone Rocha pieces with time, and in their own way. And, of course, I hope that they will enjoy being able to mix in pieces from this collection. I think that the H&M x Simone Rocha collection really does feel very recognizably Simone Rocha.
There’s the palette we adore – creams, pinks, reds. And there are the nods to Ireland, which is hugely special for me, in many of the cable knits. I certainly spent a lot of time looking back at the first neoprene pearly collection we did, which was Spring/Summer 2014 – it really felt like a moment in establishing my identity, and it was when I first introduced the pearl, which is now so signature. I also wanted to look at the Spring/Summer 2016 collection, which was partly inspired by the Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki, and which was my first Fashion Week show in Lancaster House.
I also spent time revisiting the Anne Boleyn collection, which was Autumn/Winter 2014, and mixing elements from that, such as the seersucker tartan checked dress, with more recent elements, like the pleated tulles from the Red Dolls collection, which was Spring/Summer 2018. I really wanted to take archive details and reimagine them. So, it’s not mere re-editions, it’s taking things and reinterpreting them for today.
Craftmanship is hugely important to your label. How did you bring that focus into this collection?
SR: Fabrics are a huge part of my own label, so I wanted to make sure that the fabrications in this H&M x Simone Rocha collection still had that personal touch and identity. We put the same care and attention into the fabrics in this collection as we would for any for our mainline Simone Rocha collections.
We developed versions of our signature tulles, and new take on a fil coupè dress, and we’ve redeveloped the cloqué in the new way. There are also our signature neoprenes, alongside woven tinsel tweeds, cotton poplins, lightly quilted twills, spongy jerseys and a teardrop daisy broderie anglaise. In terms of details, we’ve blown up the flower, a signature motif for us, and escalated it, and of course, there are versions of my signature accessories; the bows, the jewelry and a pearly brogue.
Tell us more about some standout elements within this collection.
SR: Well, every piece in the collection – his and hers, adult and small – is designed to be in conversation with each other; one unit, one identity. So, there are tulle dresses alongside tulle suiting, a trench for him and one for her, special knits and then classic signatures, such as tartans, pearl embellishments, florals. Silhouettes are scaled down for little boys and girls, creating adorable miniatures of recognizable classics. I wanted it to be a full wardrobe – a versatile collection that can be mixed and matched and used in people’s own ways.
I love the idea of women of all different kinds, and with all different tastes, enjoying this collection. And I hope the fact so many pieces can be worn in different ways ensures that the collection is long lasting and sustainable – which is something we hope for with everything we create. I want my pieces to be treasured, and enjoyed again and again.
My approach at every stage of the design process was to remember that for some this would be an introduction to Simone Rocha, a chance to enjoy the brand for the first time, while for others this will be a chance to recall the history of a brand that they have followed for a while.
Maybe they will be able to buy a version of a piece that they missed the first time, or a piece they always wanted but didn’t get. And, through H&M, they will be able to access a new, timeless, special piece to mix in with their existing items from past runway collections. I really hope there is something for everyone – every woman, every guy, the whole family.
The collection will be available March 11 exclusively online at kw.hm.com and on the app. Follow H&M on Instagram @hm.